Metal Roof Tiles Installation instruction and tips
Thank you for purchasing Metal Tiles, a new generation of roofing materials. The installation process of the metal tile roofing sheets is not difficult but requires some tools and basic skills for roof construction like fixing screws and cutting metal roof sheets. Our instruction is designed to help you to install our roofing materials with maximum effectiveness and minimum cost. The principals of roof installation are the same for a new steel roof construction or a roof replacement.
metal tile roof installed
Receipt of goods
Check that all goods in the consignment are there. A report on damage caused by faulty delivery or transportation must be made in the consignment note, and the manufacturer or retailer must be notified immediately. A faulty roofing product must not be used.
Handling
The metal roofing sheets are unloaded onto an even platform. The piles must be off the ground, and there must be transverse supports at intervals of 1 m. Steel Tile Sheets must be removed from the piles by lifting, not by pulling. The sharp end of a sheet will damage the coating of the sheet beneath when pulled. Thin metal sheets are subject to dents and creases so handle them with care. Tile-patterned profiles are subject to stretching, which hampers installation. They must not be lifted by pulling them from the end, but must be moved to the roof using ridge planks or lifting them into a vertical position from several points at their edges. Stains can be removed using a neutral detergent.
Preparation for roof installation
Metal Tile roof Sheets must be lifted onto the roof from the ground along strong planks reaching up to the cornice. Avoid handling the sheets in windy weather. The wind will easily take hold of the broad, flat sheets. Any necessary cutting can best be done using a nibbling machine, tin snips, electric shearers or contour saw. A metal grinder must not be used, because the cutting and the shards that it produces can damage the surface of the sheet. The edges and corners of the sheet are very sharp and, after cutting, very jagged. Use mittens and protective clothing. The roofing sheets can be slippery, especially when they are wet and/or icy. When working on the roof, always use a safety rope and appropriate footwear. Use scaffolding and ladder that is of sufficient height and at a suitable working distance. When moving the piles of roofing sheets, always ensure that the lifting equipment is firm and strong. Do not go beneath a suspended pile or suspended roof sheet.
Roof Styles
The Metal tile roofing sheets can be install on any roof style including the most common: Gable roof, Boxed Gable roof, Hip roof, Dutch Gable roof, Hip Gable roof, Skilion roof starting from 6 deg, roof with valleys, roof changing pitches (Bell truss roof or barn truss roof), Scissor truss roof (cathedral ceiling roof) etc, or any other types of the roof where the metal roofing materials can be used.
The roof trusses can be made of timber or steel. For the truss span refer to the house plans or your truss manufacturer.
Roof Battens and Measurements
When selecting the thickness of the roof boards, take into account the length of the mountings and the height of the sheets corrugations. The roof boards must all be of the same strength.

It is advisable to fit two boards side-by-side on both sides of the ridge. The profile-specific distribution of the boards is done according to the attached table.
Metal Roof tiles must be installed on the roof so that they overhang the gable board by 20-30 mm. That way, a small ventilation gap is left at the ridge. When the roof is made of several sheets, there should always be a roof board under the overlapping point. The overlapping distance must be at least 120 mm. Check the order of installation from the diagram. If sheets of different dimensions are going to be put on the roof, for example over a terrace, for tile-patterned profile sheets the length of the cornice overhang must be divisible by the tile length of the tile pattern (350 mm or 400 mm), otherwise the tile pattern will not match with that of the actual roof. Also at joint sections, the multiplicity of the tile pattern must be borne in mind.
| Distance | A | B | C | D |
| mm | 210 | 350 | 50 | 25×50 |
The roof battens can be made of steel – 40 mm top hats for a span up to 1200 mm between the rafters/trusses or 61 mm top hats for the span over 1200 mm. In case of timber battes check with the manufacturer’s span tables to chose the right size. Start measuring the roof batens spacings from the bottom. Allow 50-60 mm overhangs into the guttersand 30-35 mm over the fascia board (if installed). Put the first roof batten on the very end. Measure up the distance to the second batten (usually 210 mm between the top of the first and bottom of the second battens). Starting from that all the battens are installed at 350 mm centres (or bottom to bottom). We recommend to check the position of the second batten using one of the sheets and then making a template from a piece of timber.
To cover a large area of the roof you need to use few different size sheets overlapping them.
For example if the roof is 11000 mm long (11 meter long) you will have to use 10 sheet. Each sheet each is 1160 mm wide minus overlap of 60 mm 1160 mm – 60 mm = 1100 mm cover. So 10 x 1100 mm = 11000 mm cover.
You might need to use few sheets to cover the roof from the ridge to the gutter, if this measurement is more then 2220 mm.
For example: The measurement of the roof from the ridge to the gutter is 3270 mm. You need to use one sheet 2220 mm and one sheet of 1170 mm long with overlap of 120 mm. 2220 mm - 120 mm +1170 mm = 3270 mm.
Sometimes you will have to trim the sheets of the top (under the ridge cap) to make it fit right.
Ridge Cap Installation
Profile-shaped sealing foam strips can be fitted between the ridge capping and the profile sheet. Smooth roof capping must overlap by at least 100 mm. In addition, the seams must be sealed with sealing compound. The ridge cappings are always fixed to the profile sheets on top of the corrugation, either with screws or pressure-resistant sunken rivets. The interval in between them should be about 300 mm.

Insulation underlay
We recommend that underlay always be used when the space below the roof has insufficient ventilation. Under tile-patterned profiles in particular, underlay must be used to prevent condensation water from entering the structures. The underlay is fixed to the roof trusses. The roof battens must be nailed/screwed on top of the underlay.

Installation of sheets
Installation of the Metal Tile roofing sheets always starts, at the end on ridge roofs , and at the hip point on hip roofs. The capillary groove at the edge of the boards always goes down. Installation must start from the right bottom end. Install the sheets in straight lines down to the lower cornice, with an overhang of about 50 – 60 mm. Allow another 30-35 mm if you have a fascia board. Put the first sheet in position and attach it to the ridge with one screw. After that, fit the roofing sheets firstly from the side seam, carefully checking that they are the same size. Attach the sheets to each other with roofing screws from the ridge, with a maximum distance between the screws of 300 mm (every second pan or rib). Fit three or four profile sheets in this way. After that, carefully align the 3-4 sheets that you have laid according to the position of the lower cornice. Attach the sheets to the roof boards and continue installing.

Side cornice (Gutter end)
The roof sheet must overhang the fascia board by about 50 mm. In between the eaves flashing and the profile sheet, it is possible to use profile-shaped sealing tape, but then you must ensure that the ventilation air can pass under the roof through another channel.
End Cornice (Barge cap)
The end eaves flashings must at least reach over the first corrugation of the roofing sheet. If the profile sheet does not end at the cornice, the sheet must be cut or more sheets must be overlapped. The end eaves flashings must be fitted to the profile sheet either with screws or sunken rivets at intervals of about 1,000 mm. The flashings must overlap by at least 100 mm.
Continued overlaping
Continued overlapping can take place at points where the substructure provides sufficient support for it. The sheets must overlap by at least 120 mm. Sealing tape or sealant must always be used at the overlapping seams.
Roof valley

The part of the roof under the roof valley flashing must be completely boarded. The roof valley flashings must overlap by at least 150 mm. The seams must also be sealed with sealing compound. Profile-shaped roof valley sealing tape is used in between the flashing and the profile sheets. The sealing pieces of this tape are slanted. The tape is available in both right and left-handed forms. The flashing is fixed to the substructure with the profile sheets, either with drilling screws at the bottom of the grooves or with nails on top of the corrugations. The interval in between them must be about 300 mm. On the ridge, the end of the roof valley flashing must stretch to underneath the ridge capping and the joint must be carefully sealed.
Hip joint
The ridge capping can be cut according to the following picture.

Side Flashings (Apron flashings)
Profile-shaped sealing tape is used between the flashing and the profile sheet, against the corrugations of the profile sheet perpendicular to the front hip. The flashing is fixed at intervals of 300-400 mm. The hip flashing must overlap the profile sheet by at least 100 mm, and the seams must be sealed with sealing compound. The gap between flashing and the wall must be sealed in a manner required by what is underneath.
Exhaust ducts

For the cooker hood ventilator and air conditioner, a sheet-metal roof needs a 125 mm heat-insulated ducts equipped with adjustable angles and underlay. A 110 mm uninsulated ducts are required for the drain ventilation pipe.
Exhaust duct flanges

The roots of round pipes, antennae, etc. that go through the roof are best sealed with exhaust duct flanges equipped with LPD rubber. These come in a range of sizes with outer diameters of 40-350 mm.
Mounting using painted Pan roofing screws
The sheets are fastened to the cornice and ridge at the base of at least every second pan (low part of the corrugation). 6-7 screws are required per square metre. Lateral overlapping on top of the corrugation, max. Distance between fasteners 400 mm. Use only painted sealed pan roofing screws. A chuck is required for drilling. The screws must be fitted perpendicular to the surface of the sheet. Then the screw will not slip
Re-Roofing
When you change the old roof of your house for a new steel roof, you should bear in mind the following things: – check the slope/incline of your roof and select a suitable profile for it – check the load-bearing structures of your old roof, the roof boarding and rectangularity – make the necessary corrections – underlay – ventilation under the roof It is easy to install a new roof on top of a carefully positioned roof battens.
1. FOR OLD PROFILE ROOFS
1. Leave the old profile sheeting where it is
2. Nail vertical battens the same height as the profile (min 32 mm) at the position of the roof trusses
3. Fit new roof boards at intervals dictated by the profile sheets
4. Attach new profile sheets to the roof boards
5. Fit seals and flashings
2. FOR OLD TRIANGULAR ROOFS
1. Leave the old triangular roof in place
2. Nail vertical battens at least as high as the triangle at the position of the roof trusses
3. Fit new roof boards at intervals dictated by the profile sheets
4. Fit new profile sheets to the roof boards
5. Fit seals and flashings
3. FOR OLD SMOOTH FELT ROOFS
1. Leave the old felt roof in place
2. Nail vertical battens (min 32×50 mm) at the position of the roof trusses
3. Fit new roof boards at intervals dictated by the profile sheets
4. Attach new profile sheets to the roof boards
5. Fit seals and flashings
4. FOR OLD ASBESTOS ROOFS
1. Dismantle the old roof down to its boards and fit underlay if it has not already been done. Check your local regulation regarding the asbestos removal laws.
2. Nail vertical battens (min 32×50 mm) at the position of the roof trusses
3. Fit new roof boards at intervals dictated by the profile sheets
4. Fit new profile sheets to the roof boards
5. Fit seals and flashings
5. FOR OLD TILE ROOFS
1. Dismantle the old roof down to its boards and fit underlay if it has not already been done
2. Nail vertical battens (min 32×50 mm) at the position of the roof trusses
3. Fit new roof boards at intervals dictated by the profile sheets
4. Fit new profile sheets to the roof boards
5. Fit seals and flashings
6. FOR OLD SEAMED SHEET-METAL ROOFS
1. Leave the old roof in place
2. Nail vertical battens at least as high as the seams (min 32 mm) at the position of the roof trusses
3. Fit new roof boards at intervals dictated by the profile sheets
4. Fit new profile sheets to the roof boards
5. Fit seals and flashings
See the Frequently Asked Questions page for more info.




